I have had this issue before. best solution if you want it right is have a flooring shop match it. would help big time if you had a box of rem’s in the garage or something it would have the code on the back for easy match. then have a flooring installer come out and replace that piece. If was was glued down it takes a little work to scrape the sub surface clean. with a little mod to the grove sides the new piece will go right in. Did I say if you can’t find a flooring shop with some old stock you’ll have to buy a full box. expect a couple hundred bucks plus a couple to replace it. Next choice is same flooring contractor runs his scuffing pad on entire floor and re-coats with Bona Traffic. Dab a little furniture touch up pen on that spot first. Several folks have said to sand that piece. well if thats the pre-finished floor I think it is good luck. Aluminum oxide years of wear but I’ll tell you what you’re not sanding through it with out a case of 60 grit. You’ll never get the edges without hitting the adjacent and youll never get a finish to match. you may as well beat that board up some more to draw attention to it. it would cost less and be less frustrating. Back to, a quality flooring contractor can surgically remove that board take it to a flooring shop NOT LOWES OR THE CHEAP’O and match it. you’ll never know it happened.
their is a couple of things u can do . one is if u have any extra pieces
left over u can split the damaged one in half take it out cut just the tounge off the new piece glue it down with some pl or liquid nail. And the other thing is sand a board collect the sawdust and some glue mix it up sand a little bit then get some stain that matches . but also if its not that deep u can just get a stain marker and that matches . one of these solutions will work . if u have any questions my number is 802)860-8115
If you want to just repair it, you can color match those pictures to a stain at any place that sells stain. You will want to pull up a website that shows you a video of how to repair the wood stain on a do-it-yourself or how-to-do website so you can watch how it is done. You will need to sand it, and clean it, then stain it with the same type of gloss it has. It may not be perfectly the same, and you may still notice it, but nobody knows much about hardwood flooring and even if they see the difference, they wouls assume it was just some imperfection in the wood and nothing else. It surely wont look bad to where you would ever want to redo the entire room. Unless you have money falling out of your pockets and are a perfectionist like myself.
The most cost efficient solution would be to have a quality wood worker sand the area lightly, re-stain the area that has been sanded. After the stain has completely dried spray the wood sealer over the area to match the finish of the floor.
If you need a perfect and flawless surface, you will probably want to contact a local hardwood flooring professional. If you are a DIY’er and can live with a small difference, you could sand it down and try to re-seal it. It looks like a cherry stain but might be difficult to match it 100%. If it is pre-finished flooring, it will probably be really difficult to sand through the factory finish and find a matching seal that completely hides the blemish.
Whenever doing touch-up the most important aspect is to keep it little, the smaller the touch-up the less noticeable it is, if you were to sand the floor you would never get it to match, unless you do all the floors at the same time, the best way to touch up is to get a Minwax Stain pen, they have 12 different colors, one or two mixed are sure to work this is how we fix scratches in new construction hardwood floors
I was asked to comment on this problem so this is my best advice. Sand down the area. Fund a small piece you can take to a Sherwin Williams paint store or another paint store to have them match the stain color. Then use a Sikkens brand gel coat to finish the area an lightly sand when done with a magic eraser. Will end up bein very unnoticeable.
This is what I would do. Tape each hard wood peace with blue tape up to six inches around,the blue tape is not as sticky and will come off with ease when removed. Then add duct tape over the blue tape that will give you the extra protection. Then take rubbing alcohol and clean the working area to remove all dirt and oils from the surface of the wood. Get a small can of polyurethane and a tiny brush apply a small amount of clear on the damaged area you will be able to see if it is a match. Do not in any case apply any stain to the wood it is very hard to sand out if it is not a match.
It looks like you have brazilian cherry hardwood and in most cases it will have a clear coat that is clear. So make sure that you match the sheen of the clear of for the hardwood before applying a new coat. You can do that by buying small cans of polyurethane and testing the sheen on a peace of card board or a peace of clean scrap of wood like 2 x 4 or 1 x 4 make sure that the clear is dry before you compare the sheen. For drying time use the directions on the can you can also speed up the drying time with a hair dryer but do this away from any flammables and preferably outside for your own safety.
After you have matched the sheen and clear you can start working on the hardwood floor peaces, sand it with 220 it will take some time after all the clear is removed go over with 320 you will notice when it is done. When sanding always go with the grain it’s a must. Clean the surface with ether a damp cloth or rubbing alcohol or follow directions on the can of polyurethane . Then simply apply a thin coat of the polyurethane. The polyurethane must be for flooring applications. Make sure the area is well ventilated and you should be wearing a mask for your protection as well. Follow the directions on the can for best result on drying and waiting time in between the coats apply minimum of three coats for best results.
After you are done carefully remove the tapes and your done. This will probably take more time then you think so be patient and take your time.
Have fun and hope it works out for you.
Thanks.
;0;1
The best way to fix that spot would be to sand the effected area and stain it.
the easy way to fix that floor is cut down the middle of the damage plank in a v shape. cut half the groove on the new one and install in. that flooring looks like engineer so it cant be sanded, find the floor and replace only damage ones.
Depending on the homeowner’s budget and desire for perfection, we’d recommend two different approaches. The most cost effective and least expensive approach is to attempt a repair of either the damaged area only or the entire board that has damage. The damaged area can be spot sanded and artistically stained and refinished to blend with the rest of the board as closely as possible. Or, the entire board can be taped off, sanded and refinished to match the remaining floor. However, either of these repairs will never exactly match the rest of the floor which has undergone use and aging. If perfection is the goal, then we would suggest the second approach which is to refinish the entire floor for the best result possible. This is the only way to not show any distinction as to where the damage was done. Judging from the photos, the floor finish may be due for a redo anyway. We hope this advice is helpful.
This looks like a prefinished flooring of some sort. I would never ask around the floorboard on the joint in and sand just be affected boards. Then stain to match and re-poly just that board. The hardest thing will be to match the stain but judging from the floor it looks like there is a lot of color variation so it should be forgiving.
Sand the floor board with a small sander like a multi tool so you don’t sand into the boards next to it. You may want to start with a scraping tool with a carbide cutter to start. Sandvig make a great triangle head one…
If you know what type of wood it is you can get some scrap to play around with. I usually get two or three small cans of stain and mix them to the desired color and then use some waterborne sealer and urethane.
From the look of the pictures, my personal opinion would be to sand down the damage area(or immediate area) and to touch up with a stain to match the current finish.
That floor FOR NO REASON, should it be replaced. Repairs would cost below 25.00 in materials to home owner, and should be available at any home improvement store. I look up some brands and send you more information.
Sorry for the delay. As with most things there are a number of solutions. The obvious is replacing the board. This can get costly and does not ensure a perfect match. More than the one damaged board would need to be pulled to do the repair correctly.
Secondly one could attempt to sand and refinish just the damaged area. This is a bit of work but not too costly. Again, no guarantee on the color match.
The quick solution, which in this case I would try first, is to get a MINWAX stain pen. Using short strokes following the grain of the wood try to blend the color back in . Rub the color in , again with the grain of the wood. This will at least disguise the damage at a glance. Some repairs work better than others. Considering the few dollars for the pen and a few minutes of time, this is my first recommendation. No matter how good or bad it looks , it is nothing that isn’t removed by the afore mentioned solutions. If the homeowner is overly pickey, I would recommed sand and refinish for the full room.
Lightly sand the area that is damaged and blend it into the rest of the board – using a very fine grit sand paper. Clean up all the dust and mask off that specific board. Get a stain pen or a small can of a stain that is close in color and go over the area multiple times till the tint gets close. Once you get the color to a close match you would use a spray lacquer in a satin to mist the board.
WE would recommend choosing a area in a closet or out of site to test the lacquer before spraying. If the sheen is off on the board it will be more noticeable than the stain match for sure.
I am sorry for the delay in response. I am afraid the best way to fix this is to drill a hole on the edge of the damaged pieces and use a saber saw blade to be 3/4 long at its farthest travel and cut square to be perpendicular to the board. Then make cuts in the middle of the board 3/4 deep with a circular saw parallel with the board. Once the damaged pieces get cut out to be staggered so not to look like a patch, new pieces can now be filled in. If this is a pre-finished flooring there is no problem here. if it is not the entire floor must be sanded and finished. A cheaper option would be to dig out the light colored putty and fill with a putty that matches, you can get a few different colors and mix the to get a closer match. Another is to use stain to make that light color darker. Hope this helps. fell free to ask other questions.
I am sorry for the delay in response. I am afraid the best way to fix this is to drill a hole on the edge of the damaged pieces and use a saber saw blade to be 3/4 long at its farthest travel and cut square to be perpendicular to the board. Then make cuts in the middle of the board 3/4 deep with a circular saw parallel with the board. Once the damaged pieces get cut out to be staggered so not to look like a patch, new pieces can now be filled in. If this is a pre-finished flooring there is no problem here. if it is not the entire floor must be sanded and finished. A cheaper option would be to dig out the light colored putty and fill with a putty that matches, you can get a few different colors and mix the to get a closer match. Another is to use stain to make that light color darker. Hope this helps. fell free to ask other questions.
My recommendation would be to remove the affected pieces if they have some extra or new pieces to put in. By cutting them along their length in the middle with two cuts with a skill saw. Then use a chisel to finish the cuts. Remove pieces.
Cut the bottom grove off of the replacement piece, along length and at end. Install new pieces using glue along the edges. Clean glue from the finish surfaces.
Hope this helps. Trying to stain, finish and match will always look like a repair. Replacement of the flooring strips would be best since the floor looks like a prefinished floor.
I would try just fixing the damaged or chipped area only. Maybe try and find a small variety pack of the felt tip stain pens at your local paint store or even HD or Lowe’s. Apply them to some sample areas or wood pieces and choose the best match. This floor appears to be a cherry color with a touch of mahogany in there. Normally with floors like this where the planks have variations in the grain or different high lights in the wood you can blend it in quite easily. Some hand buffing with a wax or wood polish of the area and it’s surrounding may be needed. Add a little satin clear, or semi-gloss to finish off the job. Remember it is important to only color in the damaged area. The larger you make the repair, the more the eye will be attracted to it. These floors are normally manufactured outside of California in which allows them to use a catalyst that hardens and makes the floor durable, this is why it chipped the finish off. This process can be duplicated however, it’s tough because the manufacturer bakes the catalyst after it is applied.
From looking at this photo it seems as though this may be a pre-finished floor. If it is then the entire board will have to be replaced since the top layer has been damaged. However, if this is regular 3/4 wood then this can easily be fixed by sanding and feathering the area, taping off the area followed by re-staining and finishing with a coat of polyurethane (amount of coats depends on the finish).