From the picture it looks like the customer damaged a pre-finished hardwood floor. It looks like it is engineered floor with a very thin hardwood layer. On most pre-finished hardwood floors, manufactures are using aluminum oxide as a surface protection. To remove this aluminum oxide is not as easy as some people think. To remove the damage on the picture by sanding, staining and finish with polyurethane would be very time consuming. My advise cut the damaged planks out and replace with new by gluing the new planks right were the old was. We have done this many times and had very good results.
Hello. Since the contractor recommended replacing the entire floor, I am going to assume that you do not have any extra pieces to replace the damaged with. There are couple of things to consider before investing in a new floor: 1.The age and condition of the rest of the floor, 2.The budget for the repair, 3.The type of floor, whether it is engineered or solid hardwood. In my professional opinion, the only way for the floor to be 100%, is to sand and refinish it. On the other hand, if the rest of the floor is in good condition and you feel that the damage is in an inconspicuous area, I would recommend, (as others have,) contacting either a floor or furniture repair company
The damage looks to only involve the finish. Sand the area around the damaged spot and the spot itself with steel wool or sand paper (180 grit). You should rub in a circular motion or in the direction of the wood grain so that the wood is not damaged. Try to color sand to the short edge of the board and be irregular on the long side. Cover the adjacent boards with masking tape as to not sand them. Using a soft cloth dipped in mineral spirits wipe off the area of any wood particles and dust. After the area has dried completely paint the area using a soft rag folded tightly and a small artist brush to apply the original color finish. Start the staining lightly and build up to the color in multiple coats of stain until the colors blend. Color sticks and touch up kits are also available in stores. I cannot tell from the pictures whether the topcoat is a varnish or urethane. I have had very good success if you take your time.
Thanks for contacting me. Many of the suggestions already posted are good. Replacing the damaged piece with another (from the same lot, if possible) sounds like the best solution, but can be extremely difficult for a DIY-er, since the flooring looks like tongue-and-groove or snap-lock pre-finished engineered flooring, and would need to be cut out and replaced with an exact-size piece. If itâs pre-finished, it will be next to impossible to replicate the factory finish with DIY finishes. I would recommend finding a flooring specialist who would be willing to replace only one or two pieces.
By looking at the pictures the white spots and the discoloration is strange I did not see any burnet marks on the floors . My personal opinion without physically looking the damage try to sand the affected area clean it with bleach once dry use the matching wood color do several thin coats and wipe the excessive color off . Let it dry and do two coats of clear lacquer I hope this will solve the problem.
Hi Claire I looked at the photos and the repair should be fairly simple. First off they look pre-finished floors which means the thickness of the finished wood varies. I would sand a small section and try to match a stain color that is close. If its not as dark as u like u can dab on a bit darker color and let it sit a few minutes before you wipe it off. once you are happy w your color match and the section is fully dry I would apply a polyurethane that matches what looks to be a satin finish. could be semi-gloss? i will some times rub off the newly done area once its dry with a light steel wool and then apply another coat of poly until your repair has the same look and feel as the original.
Sanding the area with a 200 grit paper so that you feather the edges of the existing finish would work. Use a tack cloth after sweeping the area to remove any residual dust. Then apply a light coat of stain to match as closely as possible. If he doesnât know the flooring manufacturer or dealer, go with a stain/urethane mix (Lowes or Home Depot) as close as possible. Minwax makes Polyshades which would fit the bill. Use the exterior type on floors. If the flooring dealer or manufacturer is known, touch up products are usually available from them.
Whatever you do, never(!) use water when sanding. Car bodies yes, wood floors no freakinâ way! Water stains wood!
After looking at the pictures, the best most economical way to fix this is to use a touch up stain pen. Stain pens are pretty cheap and Home Depot sells them for about $4. It looks like Minwaxâs Red Mahogany pen. Once it is touched up you can also use some satin polyurethane with an artist brush to touch it up further.
Hello Claire It appears in the pictures that the wood is not damaged only the stain. So what i would do for this repair is lightly sand down only the boards that are damaged and try restaining. Try getting same color stain from where floor was purchased. And remember only the lenght of the damaged boards not just a little bit where its damaged cause it wont blend if only a little portion is done. the whole board has a better chance of bein blended for stain apperance.
This looks like a pre-finished engineered flooring. I would recommend that you locate a reputable flooring distributer in your area. If you can find a matching product they will likely be able to get you a touch up kit fot it that will give you the best match for the color and finish sheen. Next best thing would be to work with a reputable paint store to match the stain and finish then lightly sand and try to feather in the new stain and finish. Last resort, put a rug or some furniture over it!
well it depends on the level of perfection you are looking for, my preliminary suggestions are as follows:
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for a 50% repair use a brownish marker to make the difference in color less noticible
for a 80% repair use a wood stain repair marker usually available form a local wood floor store or home center
for an 85% repair, if you have leftover prefinished flooring, cut out the piece and install a new one, this is messy, time consuming and the board you install will not be perfect, it has not been worn
for a 100% repair⌠there is no such thing⌠this would be completely sanding and refinishing if it is hardwood through and through, if it is not, then complete replacement of of the floor would be necessary if you really seek a 100% repair
Sand area in question and re-stain
Hi Claire,
Iâm recommending that you Lightly sand the area that is damaged and blend it into the rest of the board â using a very fine grit sand paper. Clean up all the dust and mask off that specific board. Get a stain pen or a small can of a stain that is close in color and go over the area multiple times till the tint gets close. Once you get the color to a close match you would use a spray lacquer in a satin to mist the board.
Best Regards,;0;1
Hi Claire
Iâm not a flooring expert but do know that an exact match on refinishing one section is not guaranteed. If itâs possible to exchange the bad boards by redoing a smaller section in a closet or hallway thatâs the first option otherwise you would need to see how deep the damaged goes before refinishing that section as it may not be an option.
This should be able to be repaired without replacing any of the wood. First the spots in question should be sanded to expose the unburned wood underneath. Match the stain to the existing, allow to dry, then cover/blend in with an exterior polyurethane.
If you are seeking perfection or near perfection results, then youâll have to do more work. Please refer to earlier posts for advise on how to accomplish this type of result. However, my advise is to go to Home Depot and obtain a Minwax stain chart. Then, match the floor color to the closest color on the stain chart. Go back to Home Depot, get a Minwax stain stick thatâs closest to your floor color. Apply the stain stick color to the floor. Carefully, wipe off excess stain, as needed, using a paper towel or rag. Allow stain to dry overnight before use. Also, allow excess stain on paper towel or rag to dry before disposal.
Jeff
This can be simple with patience for the home owner.
Clean affected area with Mineral Spirits.
Then sand area lightly to ensure bonding. Sand approximately 1/8 inch or less around the affected area not to make it too large.
Use a putty knife to spread wood filler into area.
Let wood filler dry. This takes patience because if you work the area too soon you will move the wood filler you just put down and will have to start all over again and remove all the wood filler you put in.
When dry, sand the affected area.
Clean area with a paint brush so all sanding excess is removed and the area is clean.
Then stain with a color that closely matches the remainder of the floor.
Once this is completed the problem area may still be visable compared to the remainder of the floor. The entire floor should be refinished so it is consistent throughout.
Without seeing the floor in person its hard to say exactly what can be done. I read through the other threads and some are right, some are wrong.
Its hard to tell by the picture, but it almost looks like an engineered floor or maybe even laminate. If thatâs the case then the only option is possibly replacing the one or two boards. If its truly solid hardwood and the rest of the floor is in great shape, I would attempt to fix that small area and blend in with rest of floor. But I would explain to the homeowner that it will not be perfect, but much better. That failing, and again if its truly solid wood, then the whole area would need redone,(worst case scenario)
Hope my 2 cents helps.
Itâs difficult to match a factory finish on anything. I would try and touch up the spot working it a little at a time. Tearing out the piece and replacing it is more expensive. Thanks.
I would tape around these areas with blue tape. Use wet sand paper,wet sand the area, next day stain with, which appears to be a cherry stain. The add a satin sealer. Remove tape