Thats a easy repair, Lightly sand the area affected and restain those spots , and reseal it, This is one of those jobs my company would do for ten dollars and a good reference from the customer,… you tape off the area affected, lightly sand the area, match the stain at local hardware store, and may have to apply a few coats to match the darkness and then reseal .
It appears to not be that deep of a wound which gives you a few options. They do follow the hospital, doctor, bandaid path. The first and provably best option is to remove the affected slat and replace. The extent of this job depends on location in the room, trimming, etc… also, when this panel is out it may be possible to refinish however sanding may create a slight lowpoint that may concern you if moisture from the top is a concern in the area. Option two would be to attempt to sand the area in place and use a moisture of saw shavings and fill to build flat to match the floor height. This is a very artsy approach and the downside is you will loose the grain but be able to match color well after staining. I have done this and got the sawdust from some wood under the trim. The final approach would be lightly sand to get even and the try restraining. Test color on a piece put of site first. Just make sure again that you do not create a low point in a high surface moisture area. I have some other ideas bit for that you really should have a pro do it. Hope you can get it fixed!
Ho Claire couple ideas to repair floor is if it not a deep mark and more of a scratch u can lightly sand it and re stain. The area or they do sell a wood filler that can be stained also I would recommend try the wood filler in a scrap piece if wood to make sure stain matches before you actually apply to floor. Please let me know you got ghis response and if you have any other questions. Thanks TOM
This appears to be pre-finished flooring. Least expensive option is to touch up the spots - either by a flooring professional
or owner. Replacing the affected boards, if matching flooring is available, would yield the least noticable repair. My opinion is
that it would be difficult to sand and re-finish individual boards without the repair being obvious … additionally, some pre-finished
flooring has a wear layer too thin to allow sanding with a standard drum type floor sander - if a total sand and re-finish is
being considered.
It wouldn’t let me reply in the forum but I do have a response. One question that needs to be answered for a clearer answer is if this is a solid hardwood or an engineered. To me it looks like drops of a hot liquid hit it to bring it down to a natural color underneath. The difference of what kind it is makes a big difference in repair options. one answer for either kind of wood which is not a perfect repair, but better than what it is, is to go to their local hardwood floor distributor or home depot and find a hardwood floor touch up pen close to the color that the floor is. 24 hours after the color is applied, apply one light layer of a harwood floor clear coat/polyurethane as a clear coat and if this doesn,t bring it back to the same shine, apply another coat 24 hours later if needed. This option will be noticable somewhat, but nothing like it is now. The best option besides replacement would be to bring in a local hardwood floor refinisher to find quote out a price to refinish the whole surface which is an inexpensive way. The only thing is, the texture of that would has the look of an engineered floor in which some can not be refinished and some can be done one time only. This is something that the company should be able to provide an answer for. Enginnered floors are thinner than solid along with designed as multiple layers of wood to expand and contract and only the top surface is a finish quality wood and it makes a big difference on how thick the top layer is. A solid hardwood floor that is 3/4 thick on the other hand can be refinished for sure multiple times. In refinishing, the surface is sanded down to it’s original species of woods color and then you choose a color to restain the floor with and then a clear coat is applied to provide a shine and to add resistance to wear and tear. Multiple coats are suggested as normally in the quote only 1 coat is quoted in the cost. Depending on region, average cost varies, but the price would be way less than a replacement and would make these floors look brans new again. I hope this answer is clear enough and can help out with a decision on what to do.
To repair the damage on your hardwood floor I can think of two ways, mask around the damaged board, sand it down and re stain it to match the rest of the floor or you can cut that board out and replace just that one piece, using a circular saw ajust the depth of the blade to match the thickness of the board and being very carefull not to damage the rest of the floor make as many cuts as necessary to make it easier to remove the damaged board in pieces, measure and cut the new board to size, cut off the tongue and glue it in place, If you deside to go with the first option make sure you hire someone who really knows about staining wood not just installing floors, I hope this helps.
The only way to never see a blemish is to replace the section of hardwood if available. If not available or you want a repair for the least amount of money perform the following:
Remove the damaged finish by sanding it out. You can start with course grit to perform most of the work but finish with some fine grit. Work the smallest area possible.
Match some stain to your existing floor and apply with a rag and wipe off all access stain.
Match the clear coat finish sheen and apply lightly only to the smallest area possible and let dry.
If you did a good job matching the stain and clear coat the spot will hardly be noticeable but you will be able to see it.
This process will incur about $35 in materials and 1 hour of your time not including shopping.
The cost for a hardwood floor person to repair will be about $250 plus materials.
The simplest, and easiest way is to get a stain marker from Home Depot or Lowes. They will be located by the stains and paints inside the store. If the owner purchased with the house with the floor pre installed and does not have any replacement panels, then it would be almost impossible to match the color on the current market to replace. Then a full install would be required.
You would be better either talking to a wood floor guy who can lace in a piece of the floor if there are spare pieces left over. Or a professional floor finish guy who could repair by refinishing the scratch. There is no need to replace the whole floor for a tiny scratch. The size of the repair looks like it would fall under a minimum call out charge probably looking at $500 to repair.
Hi Claire, Few simple ways to go about it. First the area needs a very light scuff,(220grit sandpaper) then the exposed bare wood can be refinished with stain or a repair marker. last step would be to seal it with a satin polyurethane. Another option would be to use a polyshade which is the first option done in one step. The stain is in the polyurethane. polyurethaning the entire board may help disguise the imperfection as well. Whoever dropped the hookah coal is going to know where it it but everyone will prop look right past it! hope this helps
The floor can be repaired a couple of different ways, if the owner has any flooring to match, the damaged piece could be cut out and replaced, if no matching flooring is there then the second option would be to color match the stain as close as possible and apply the stain over the damaged area.
Do not feel the homeowner would need to consider replacement of entire floor. Depending upon its age and present condition of the surrounding areas I would suggest to tape around the damaged area and fine sand. Generally, flooring comes with a stain color. Apply stain coats lightly until match.
If flooring color was not designated on original package, try mixing Minwax stains to receive a perfect match.
Proceeding forward on that process,it would be much more affordable to repair as above noted, and poly coat entire flooring area with 2 coats Minwax Fast Drying clear finish in Satin or Gloss.
Claire,we hope that this has been some assistance in solving the problem.
Best way and the simplest way replace a board or two it’s not brain surgery
It looks to me like a pergo or click lock floor either replace the one board if you have any extra from when your flooring project was done or you could fill the spot with wood putty. That would be pretty easy to match up and lightly sand the patch
There are colored wax crayons that can be matched up and touched up similar to cabinet trim. There are also colored markers that can be used also. These can be found at the local hardware store, and the repair is inexpensive. Good luck!
If it truly is a hardwood door and not a laminate the area could be lightly sanded and then match stain to floor. Then finish with polyurethane to bring damaged area back to the rest of the finished surface. However if it is laminate the contractor is right. I have not found a product that can fix laminate well enough.
All stores will stain guides showing colors. Check the color on the guide to your floor. You have a oak veneer floor so buy the closest matching stain with the match for oak wood. Also pick up a small can of clear gloss spray lacquer, 220 grit sand paper, some blue masking tape, and your set.
Tape off around the mark a few inches all the way around, with newspaper around the floor from it. Lightly sand (this is a veneer floor and it is very easy to sand through the oak veneer) all the burned lacquer. When the area is smooth to the touch, take a clean cloth and dip it in the stain. Rub the sanded area with the stain until it is a match. Let dry for at least 6 hours.
Lightly spray the clear lacquer over the area making sure all the surrounding areas are covered. It may take a few coats to get the same finished look. When it has dried, take up the tape, compound out any edges left around the taped area from the spray lacquer.
hi that looks to be engineered hardwood and if it is you’re going to need to replace the board or find a touch up pen that matches and use that. but just in case it is not engineered hardwood and it is regular hardwood just go to your local Home Improvement Store find a stain and polyurethane that matches close enough then send that spot down re stain it let that dry then polyurethane it… it’s kinda hard to tell from the pictures what kind of damage is done there but if you could provide more I could probably answer the question a little better
Not a flooring contractor but I would look at what type of flooring, prefab or true hardwood flooring and look at how deep the indents that the effected area has. If not deep and more of a surface marks/chips on a true hardwood I would blue tape the area and fine sand with the grain to bare wood. get some stain color strips/charts from lowes, ace hardware etc or take a picture to match up as close as possible then use a clear sealer. you can use the sealer to help buildup if it has low area and possibly use a rubing compound to smooth any edges. If deep indents I would look at replacing the section and finish.
Here’s how you do it:
First using blue painters tape (14 day clean removal) tape around the perimeter of the damaged board at the seams with adjacent boards.
Next using 220 grid sand paper sand the damaged spot down to bare wood.
Using a touch up stain pen ( most home improvement stores sell those for around $5:00 to $7:00)stain the bare wood to match existing stain.
It’s best to use a lighter stain color and repeat the above step until the desired color is achieved. Penetrating stains usually dry lighter than when applied.
After the stain has dried( 12 to 24 hours depending on the temperature) spray three light coats of polyurethane finish using a spray can ( make sure the finish sheen matches existing eg. gloss, semi gloss, satin…on so on). Allow enough dry time between coats per manufactures directions,
Make sure the area two to three feet on every direction is properly covered to avoid over-spraying.
Try to feather out the finish coat meaning spray a little heavier at the damaged spot and lighter towards the edges of the board.
Remove the blue tape and you’re done.
Note: The new finish might appear a little glossier but with time will blend in.
Hope this helps