Sand with 200 grit sandpaper, touch up with a stain magic marker (supplied by cabinet makers and available from minwax) and re-seal with a low sheen water based polyurethane. Allow time to blend in with the rest of the floor.
This is an easy fix that comes up all the time. Just sand the small damaged areas and feather the sanded areas as to not make it look square and stain to match and donāt forget to put a clear coat to protect. The clear coat may be gloss or satin, be sure to get the one to match. Allow 24 hrs to dry. This should be a very low cost repair.
Ken Rogers Lic. General Contractor in Georgia
Out of all the answers Iāve read, you (Greg Manmiller) are the only one who addressed one of the most important factors (I think) in determining what kind of repair to make, and that is the depth of the damage. That definitely determines the path of repair. My company strives for restoration, not just repair. If the repair can be sanded and restained, to match the stain color, you would need a similar piece of wood of the same variety. Since hardwood generally takes stain differently from board to board, an exact match probably will not happen, but if you come close enough and match the finish, it shouldnāt be noticeable. It appears to be a matte or satin finish, though. A local paint store or painting professional can help you determine that. I might also recommend a product called Bona Fide Floor restorer/finish that is can be applied over the entire floor once the repair has been made. This is a sponge mop applied product that will provide a consistent sheen over the floor further concealing the repair.
No reason to tear out the floor, there are 2 ways to repair:
#1 Replace the affected pieces, (Maybe take out of a closet if there none available?)
#2 Refinish just the pieces that are damaged as in a furniture repair.
All in all not a difficult repair
first- the damage area does not look the same in the photos. second- without seeing the entire floor its hard to give the right answer to the problem. with that being said- if the floor is real wood, I suggest sanding the entire floor and then refinish with a high quality floor finish. Depending where the damage is on the floor, you can sand the area and try to find a matching stain close to the finish (remember that each piece of wood is different and takes stain differently) then finish with similar floor finish.
I concur with Creel.
The touch up pros for products like these floors or prefinished high dollar doors are best equipped to do invisible repair to just the damaged area.
No one else has the special tools, compounds and techniques.
Kris A Flodin
You can sand and refinish entire floor. Or if wood damaged to deep. Replace damaged piece of wood and sand and refinish floor
Finish damage on flooring can be a real nuisance, but you donāt need to replace the entire floor. From the photos the exposed wood appears to be in good shape with only the finish being chipped off, so a spot repair on the finish could be attempted. This would involve sanding the affected area, staining to a similar color, and filling the repair with several coats of thinned polyurethane. If the damage is in a highly visible location, scuff-sanding the entire board to level the finish and top coating the board will help minimize the appearance of the repair. The result may still be visible to a critical eye, but should be satisfactory to last until the overall floor needs to be refinished.
Regards
I would cut out this board and look to replace it with one from a closet or under an appliance such as the stove. This way you are using the same wood from the same installation. The new, almost matching wood can be used to repair the area in the closet or under the stove.
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Replace board with new
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Tape board off and sand, stain and poly board
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Sand entire floor, stain and poly
Here are three options, depending on budget and the level of perfection.
- Easiest and least expensive: Spot treat the area. Get Minwax stain samples from your retailer. Buy the Minwax Wood Finish Stain Marker that closely matches your floor. Lightly sand only the small area with 220 grit sandpaper. Apply the stain marker according to directions. Top coat with polyurethane (yours looks like a satin luster). Approx DIY cost $20. Tip - save the marker to use for scratches and other blemishes.
- Replace the boards affected (suggest professional for this) It may be difficult to find an exact match. Approx cost $200-400.
- Refinish the entire floor, if the floor is refinishable. Many engineered floors are not. (suggest professional for this) Approx cost $1-2.00 /sq ft.
Hope it helps.
Ed.
Alot of good answers already listed , my advice is the same for all the touch up advice . Go to hardware , or Home Depot type store and buy a kitchen cabinet touch up kit in a matching color and follow there instructions. Sand ,clean , stain, and seal.While in stain part it is possible to keep applying extra stain to acchieve darker results also you can use a permimeter marked to draw thin lines to mimic natural grain.Then seal.
It is important to determine what type of floor this is. If it is a nail down, glue down or floated floor. Also where in the floor is the damage. It is always easier to replace a nail down board then a glue down board. A good floor installer can replace a nailed board in about an hour. You can replace a floated or glued down board but it is alot more labor intensive.All the major floor manufacturers carry repair kits for this purpose. You can contact a local retailer to purchase one. They usually contain some matching stain, sand paper, urethane and an applicator.
i would try the repair kit. If it doesnāt work out then board replacement would be the way to go.
Sand the area that is damaged with 120 grit, by hand and sand in the same direction of the wood grain. After sanding use a tack cloth to remove the wood dust from the grain of the wood. Then use a stain sealer before staining, this will help control your stain color. Find a stain color that is close. Try a small sample area that is out of site (hard to find). If you like the match then you are good to go. Follow the stain manufacture directions. Just know, you will always see it no matter how close you match the color.
You can also do it the old school way and use model paint and a small detail brush.
It is not a very large spot tape it off lite sand apply stain
And finish keep area that is being repaired to a bare
Minimum or replace wood section and also leave
The hookah alone is not to smart walking around your
Home with that type of pipe use a smaller pipe probably
Would not do that type of damage
Hi Claire
You certainly donāt need to replace the WHOLE floor.
It was really fortuitous that the coal land on only one plank.
You can have a professional sand just the one plank, stain to match, and apply one to two coats of polyurethane. It will take some time to match the others but eventually it will be as if it never happened. you can do this yourself it just depends on how comfortable you feel doing this kind of work).
Hope this helps
Matt Oliverio
MFO Painting & Design, Inc
Carrboro, NC
If that is pergo you need to replace a section.
If it is indeed real hardwood, sand the entire floor and restain it if you want to do it right.
replacing the floor seems to be over kill
Depending upon your budget and how much a color variance may bother you, you do have a few options. The most cost effective and quickest way to hide it is to purchase a stain marker at your paint store or Lowes and simply color over the area with a color matching marker, however, it wonāt be a flawless repair. You can sand down the board and stain the board with a color matching stain and apply a finish coat after it dries, if it is real wood. You should be able to get a stain color match at Sherwin Williams or Lowes if you bring in a sample. Finally, you can replace the board if you know where to get matching boards.
Good morning
Thereās a lot of factors that would go into this decision. To start, see if thereās extra wood leftover from install. Even if there is and you can replace it, the colors might not match due to the Sun or wear and tear. (Sun darkens the wood over time) Engineered wood can NOT be refinished and would need to try and stain to match as close as possible. Otherwise its about $1 per sq ft (in my region) to refinish the floor. It depends on your customers budget and how bad they want a perfect match. Once those factors are known then the decision becomes that much easier!
Best of luck
2 ways to handle this,refinishing the floor is crazy!You just canāt sand the whole board down to bare wood without messing up the surrounding boards,and if you are some kind of sand floor scrape master you will never get that pre-finished look that comes from the factory.And refinishing the whole floor is over kill and costly.You can doctor up the area with a stain pen and a sharpie to make it just a blemish. If itās in a highly visual area and a blemish or any character to the floor will not do,then finding a replacement for the Brazilian cherry should not be that hard.Nail down,glue down or floating floor can be found at Lowes or Home Depot or a flooring center.Or if your lucky there could still be some stashed in the house or business.Then with a little carpenter finesse the boards can be replaced.This isnāt that simple of a fix as some have stated.If one is not skilled they can damage more of the surrounding areaās.A job like this should take a few hours,set up to clean up.