From the pictures it is hard to tell if the finish is chipped or burnt and if the wood is dented or burnt. That being said the most practical way to start. Would be to blue tape the damaged spot and lightly fine sand or steel wool the spot. then wet your finger and touch spot (the this will mimic the poly finish) if the color looks good you will not need to color match the stain. Let it dry for a day .then spray the spot with a satin finish poly let dry and lightly sand between coats
Hi
Assuming the floor is a true hardwood floor and not a laminate the damage can be sanded out and the area restained to match the orginial color. Which would also be the least expensive approach. If the home owner has any left-over boards from the orginial installation they could be used to patch the area which would be another option.
Is this solid plank or engineered? On solid plank it can be repaired or replaced by any competent flooring installer. If it is engineered you may be able to repair, depending on thickness of veneer, or by replacing and again by a competent flooring installer. The original install should left some planks or a extra box for just this reason or you can check your original invoice from the install and hopefully purchase another box of the product. Remember when replacing with new the area replaced will be different till it ages and hopefully blends in with the remaining flooring.
This is a easy fix with a trip to the hardware store and a little time. Just sand the affected area with some 220 grit sandpaper to feather the edges of the finish, then you can apply a little stain to match the color (either a touch-up pen or little stain and a rag, finally wipe or brush on some poly urethane.
Best way to fix any hardwood issue is to sand it down and re polish and seal it. It should be less than a days work for a professional and we are more than capable of handling the job if need be.
Good luck
i am with some of the others on this one is is goint to be almost impossible to repair without noticing
if there is a start and stop point sand only the portion in that area and stain and reseal
the idea with the stain pen could also work quite well when done buff entire area
It looks like engineered-prefinished flooring so the board should be replaced. It isnât difficult to do, matching an engineered floor can be a bit more difficult if the flooring has been down for awhile and has some wear. We just replaced some damaged engineered hardwood flooring in a commercial space and it turned out beautifully even with the slight variation in wear.
If the floor is solid hardwood, which it doesnât appear to be sanding and refinishing may work out perfectly.
Thanks
I would like to think that referrals are ones best approach but state required licenses is a good way to prove one is a legitimate contractor.
Hello Claire
The best bet is to check if its solid wood floor panels that you have, if so best advice I can give is to sand down that entire panel removing all the original clear if it has some and also the stain that way you can recoat with a matching stain that will blend in with the rest of the floor. If the floor is not solid wood and it has laminate floor, remove that panel by cutting it out with a circular saw then find an existing or match the floor as close as possible. It will take some hours to remove that piece of panel and to retrofit the new piece. Also install new piece with a good adhesive bond. Good luck
Hi
There are two entirely different types of damage present. Sorry that no one took a close look at the second.
The second one is Glue that has been finished over.
Also, the wood appears to be a composite. If so, then the veneer is very thin. Avoid over-sanding areas or you will sand to the substrate and that would be another problem altogether.
Anyway, here goes:
#1 issue :
#NAME?, be sure to first use a wood conditioner before staining for more consistent results). Others didnt mention this, so I know that all their touch ups turn out much darker than the surrounding areas even if they use the exact same stain. Personally I would recomend a professional to do the touch-up if you want it to look perfect.
#2 Issue : GLUE
-Use a small sharp file to delicately âsandâ off the glue. Auto detailing stores also sell a ultra fine sanding block thats perfectly flat for car repairs. Dont use sandpaper till the end or you will end up with a âhaloâ around the much harder glue. Finis, using Mineral Spirits as a lubricant to help sanding. Remove glue completely. Touch-up.
For all touch-ups:
#NAME?
#NAME?, they never work out very well and hide the grain.
#NAME?, then definitely dont do this.
#NAME?
If you do the repairs yourself, then call for t/u it would probally run $50-100 depending on what they recomend topcoating the floor with.
Hope this halps. Sorry for the book.
-James
Simple and easy. Prefinished hardwood can be replaced at any time. Just contact a hardwood floor supplier to match your existing flooring, order a box and have a professional installer to replace damage boards maybe one or more boards. It will save you money and time.
Tape around damaged area (not necessarily in a perfect square), leave about 3/4 between center of damaged area to inner edge of tape; lightly sand damaged area, tapering edges so they are smooth to the touch. Using a stain pen, stain damaged area then use a polyeurothane finish. Donât brush polyeurothane on, pour enough on so it creates a small puddle to fill in damaged area. Let dry for several days, remove tape, sand entire area until it has a smooth feel. Apply 1 or 2 more light coats of polyeurothane over scratches to blend area to old floor.
You may need to use several progressions of sand paper from 80grit to 220 grit before applying final coat of polyeurothane.
Just about every potential option (concerning board replacement) has been laid out already, but as a finisher I would offer a word or two of caution concerning the refinishing aspect of this project:
I do not steer customers towards Home Depot when looking for quality finish products.
I do not consider minwax an acceptable stain - especially for flooring.
I do not use steel wool. There is no control over the depth of scratching with steel wool, where sandpaper has a constant grit. Also, any traces of steel wool left behind has the potential to oxidize (rust).
I would never attempt to apply a clearcoat willy-nilly without first identifying the type of clear film finish originally used. You might cause more damage using dissimilar products than you did with a hookah.
If you have identified the existing clear finish as either a shellac or a lacquer, âreflowingâ the surface might be an inexpensive solution for you (after matching stain).
Sure, you can use a touch-up pen and clear fingernail polish if you are going to be happy with the results, Most of my customers wouldnât be.
Good luck
Roger Coupe
Proper Painting, LLC
Depending on the persons skills I would suggest using the touch up sticks and stain markers as a starting point. They are cheap and can be blended to mimick streaks and colorings in the wood. After that the next level would be as others have suggested of light sanding stain and seal. Best option is to cut out the board and replace if they had extra flooring. Good Luck.
If you know the color of the floor you can get a touch up kit from flooring or kitchen cabinet company.
The homeowner needs to understand that any repairs made to a flooring system that has been in use for an extended period of time will result in a color variation, but the repairs can be made. The damaged area needs to be sanded with a fine grade paper (Hand sand), a stain chart can be used to color match the stain. I strongly suggest that the homeowner get a duplicate species of the wood and test the stain on a raw sample to see if the color matches. Once they are satisfied with the color match apply with a painters rag to the damaged area only, do in several light coats until the color blend meets with your approval. Over a period of time the newly stained area should blend and be barely visible.
This approach does not include repairs to the flooring if it has damage beyond what appears to be superficial
Claire,
There are only 2 correct ways to repair the floorâs finish and deal with the problem.
Assuming the floor is a solid wood material, the floor can be completely sanded and finished in the conventional manner, or if the owner does not want to refinish the entire floor, an artisan from the flooring, cabinet, or the paint/stain trades can refinish only the damaged area. Some of these individuals are true artist who can disguise a burned area by making deeply scorched spots resemble naturally occurring knots in the wood. They can also hide discoloration damage caused from excessive heat by indiscernibly rubbing and blending distinctly different and varying shades of stains into the original finish.
While an artisan with these skills may require 3 to 5 hours, over several days to repair a relatively small area, and it may seem expensive, the cost is usually a much smaller fraction of the total cost required to refinish the entire floor, and this solution usually poses the least amount of stress and inconvenience to the owner.
Hope that this was helpful.
This is a prefinished floor.You can purchase flooring to match or you can lightly sand area and find a stain to match.Then apply a urathane finish. This can match close but will never match perfect.
If its engineered flooring replaceing piece will be the only way.
I would sand the damaged area and go to a paint store and match the stain. It will take a few applications and might not come out perfect but it would look better than it does now. Or you might be able to take up the damaged board and replace it .
Recommend lightly sanding and touching up the damaged spots with stain (use the photos to match stain at a paint store), then mask off just the damaged boards preferably use a blue tape. After taping apply polyurethane to just the damaged boards. Tape will provide a clean line where the repaired boards meet the rest of the floor.
If you are able to find out who the original installer was they might be able to provide a small amount of urethane or tell you where to get it so it will match.