I have been a cabinet and furniture maker for thirty years. I custom mix stains and fix many of these problems. If the wood is dented you can get most of the dent out with a small amount of water like two or three drops. Let the spot dry and with a very light hand sand from the middle of the spot to the edge. Be careful that you don’t make the spot any bigger than it is. With stain that is a little lighter than the floor color but the same shade stain the spot. If it is a little light retain the spot. After it dries drip a few drops of finish on the spot and let dry. If the spot is still indented after it dries add a few more drops until the finish is just a little higher than the rest of the floor. After spots are fully dried take a sharp knife blade and scrape the finish until it is even with the surrounding finish.
I spray allot of lacquer and have mastered the art of tinted lacquer but this is not something that a home owner or contractors would be able to do, it is much faster way to fix imperfections.
Good luck this is not na easy fix.
Richard
I have a couple of choices. 1St, Call a local furniture re-finisher and most of the time they can blend in a melt stick. 2nd, Wet sand with 400 grit wet sand paper, the entire board. Tape off area where other boards touch this board. Stain with the closest stain(minwax) and seal board with thin coat of Lacquer.
Step 1). Is there another plank of pre finished flooring.
Step 2). If so you can use a multimaster or skill saw and cut the existing one out, if there is a new plank you will need to cut the tounge of the new piece in order to get it in, u can either glue it back in or face nail then use an oil based putty that matches.
Step 3). If no plank is available try taking a piece of trim or a transition piece that matches the stain color to a Benjamin Moore paint store they can match the stain and clear either brush on clear or spray type. Do not go to lowes or home depot to try and match.
Step 4). Tape and paper the planks around the damaged plank, using an orbital sander with 80 grit then 120 grit then 220 grit finally 320. if 80 is not enough go to 60 or 50 grit, the reason for this is you must sand all the clearcoat off on the entire section. You may use a belt sander if you keep it moving be careful not to create divits.
Step 5). Clean the sanded section well using a vacuum and a tack cloth. You may also need to use a stain controller. Ask the Benjamin Moore Rep. If you end up spraying the clear finish be careful its extremly flamable, always use proper safety gear. Dust mask, eye protection, gloves, and hearing protection.
Thanks, Jasper Liles
911 Handyman
1.If you have an extra piece, cut through center of damage one a couple of times, and take it off, the replacement it’s gonna have some kind of lip, cut it off on the end, and on the groove side on a table saw cut the bottom side of the groove on 2 sides, you’ll end up with a lip on the long side only, try to slip it in, dry fit, once it fits pretty tight, add regular yellow wood glue on all edges. Clean extra glue with wet rag, place some weight and leave it overnight.
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No replacement, hard work… Tape off the entire board edge, protect the adjacent wood very very good. Drop a little at a time lacquer thinner and with a razor blade scrape of the finish, repeat until you have cleaned the whole board.
Buy a few stains, and gloves, try to mix a bit of red Sedona, a bit mor of English chestnut and some cherry too. It might be little light add a tiny bit of kona or similar, careful is really black.
If you mess up, clean up and try again. It’s going to look too opaque, dull, but once you apply the finish it will look really good.
So to finish it off get a can of polyutherane spray can finish, yours is either semigloss or satin. Maybe buy both, try satin first, let it dry, too dull still, go with semigloss. And 3 or 4 coats. Don’t step for a couple of days. -
If you don’t care that much for the look, it looks it didn’t lost the stain color, so sand light around it not the bare wood (you’ll strip the color off), so tape the whole board off, cover really good all others, and just apply the polyurethane finish the same way as solution number 2.
Hope it works.
First you need to tape on around the edges of the damaged plank. Second take a piece of sand paper ( 180 grit ), sand the Whole plank. Third buy some polieutherane clear spray in your hardware store and apply a thick coat on the whole plank, let it dry for about 12 hours. Fourth sand the sprayed with 320 sand paper to smooth it out and let it dry for another 12 hours. It is a possibility that you need to re spray the working area but, just a thin coat. Depending on the homeowner abilities the spraying - sanding process should be repeated 2 or 3 times until them get a smooth surface. Most of the resurfacing companies will recomend to refinish the whole floor area, but I have done this before with a great result.
Also will be a good idea to have some wood stain matching the floor color ( will be applied before the polieutherane ).
If I can be of further help, let me know.
it can be repaired. Sand,clean,stain and or find a matching piece.
Lightly sand the area and refinish it with a touch up pen for hardwoods or similar stain. If staining, then tape off only that plank and sand entire area and re-stain. If you have extra flooring or you know the exact type and color, then that piece possibly a few around it can be cut out carefully and new ones reinstalled. If you have the finances then you can have a company come out and refinish your entire hardwood with any color you like. (This requires sanding down the surface and depends on the thickness of the hardwood itself not plywood. I hope this helps.
SAND DOWN YOUR FLOORS AND RE POLISH THEM
I am a home inspector and also have been a construction contractor for over 20 years. Henry Duchre above had stated it the best. The damage is limited to the finish and does not have any visual signs of heat damage to the wood. Therefore unless you want to have a larger mess and more cost involved absolutely have the areas sanded, the stain matched, and the protective finish blended or redone. You could try blending the Poly, but unless it is water based and not oil based spot touch ups are difficult and usually show in the finished product.
Lightly sand the area with 600 grit sandpaper, find a stain at your local Sherwin Williams or Home Depot that closely matches the color of the floor. apply the first coat with a rag and let it sit for approximately 15 seconds and then wipe area clean. Look at the color to see whether or not it may need another application of stain. Whens satisfied with the color seal it with a satin urethane.
Option 1: From the photos it appears as if this was a pre-finished hardwood floor. If that is the case and you have additional material, a competent flooring installer can make the repair quite easily by replacing the damaged board(s), although depending on the age of the floor the color may not be exact. Option 2: A finish professional should be able to make repairs to each damaged spot in a way that makes it disappear relatively well. Option 3: Regardless of solid wood or engineered flooring, so long as the floor is relatively new (hasn’t been refinished multiple times), refinishing the floors is another option although pre-finished flooring is more work to refinish given the aluminum-oxide, factory applied topcoat. I have listed these in the order I would prefer to persue if it were my own home. Refinishing all floors is the more expensive, most invasive way to correct this issue. Options 1 and 2 should both be cost effective, relatively quick ways to make the repair if 90% perfect is acceptable. Best of luck!
This can be repaired with a furniture touch up kit. These kits have different color markers that are used to blend in chips and scratches in furniyure repair. The easiest thing to do is to lightly sand with the grain with 180 grit paper, then find the color pen that best matches the original finish. After you have touche dit up use a can of spray polyurethane that best matches the original sheen of the floor. Give it a couple of light coats letting it dry between coats.
I think the homeowner is in luck with this one. After zooming in on the photos provided, it appears that the damage was no deeper than the coating applied. Regardless of the flooring system installed, this can be repaired to acceptable standards if done properly.
First homeowner expectations should be spelled out clearly. Wood naturally has variances in finished color so looking for a ‘perfect’ match is unreasonable, whereas no two pieces match exactly when it comes from the factory.
Second to consider is homeowner budget based upon those expectations. Newly installed flooring is not necessary.
Here are the options. Due to the fact that the wood itself is not damaged beyond repair…
- Isolate the repair to just the affected pieces.
- Refinish the entire floor, including a localized repair to the affected pieces.
That’s a considerable cost difference between the two.
The isolated repair will be more surgical in nature, but far less expensive than doing the entire flooring system. Depending on the location of the blemish in relation to the the layout of the room (visibility), the homeowner will need to consider the value of one versus another. The homeowner should expect a difference in sheen on an isolated repair or expect a higher labor cost redoing the entire floor with a consistent reflection throughout as an end result.
Hire an established and reputable floor refinishing company local to the property for either repair if you want professional results. They will have a network which includes sources for recognizing the existing finishes, matching the stain and the experience to make this as un-cumbersome as possible for the homeowner. The information I have provided here should help you in choosing the company you will have do the repair.
John Marston
www.marstonshouseofcolor.com
Hi Claire, if the floor is real wood the first thing to do is tape arround the edges of the board and sanded really good start fro the center of damage and work your way out toward the outer side of damage go to home center get wood filler with color apply a thin coat on the damage area used a clean rag with some mineral spirits to spread the wood filler evenly and let it dry over night the next day if is dry apply stain close to the color of the board firs coat and let it dry ones it drys check to see if you achieve the desire match and if you did spray 3 coats of floor varnish satin hope this helps good luck,;0;1
In this situation, even if it was my own house I would: Lightly sand and touch up with matching Poly Shades. You may know where the spot is if you look real close, but no one else will.
One option is to go to Sherwin Williams and get a color match, If you have any left over pieces when they installed the floor, take one with you, slightly sand the effected area, stain the spots and seal with Polyurethane Varnish, you may have to sand the polyurethane and apply a second and or third coat. you will still be able to see the spot, but without sanding the entire area in the line of site, staining and sealing the complete floor evenly. this will be your best option…
No, you don’t have to replace it. You can just sand it down and refinish it. It won’t be easy though.
Other choice would be if you have extra wood plank
Remove entire plank and install the new one. This repair will take much
Longer and cost abit more.
Dp Floorcovering 909-851-5089
The most cost effective way would be to use touch up markers by minwax. They are available at lowes and home depot. Looking at the pictures the wood looks to be a prefinished type, if that is the case I would try to contact the builder to see what type and brand and have the individual boards replaced.
I would say that you can sand down the entire plank and refinish it to match existing.